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History of the Tie |
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Emperor Shih Huang Ti |
The first known depiction of a tie in the form of a knotted scarf was discovered in the grave of the first emperor of China Shih Huang Ti (3rd century BC.). During its entire history, the tie, always being subject of temporary fashions, has been a mirror of its time.
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In particular military life and wars led to continuous
changes in the tie. The Roman "focales", a complicatedly knotted tie, served the soldiers as a protection against dirt and sun.
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Roman soldiers, Trajan column, Rome |
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Jacques Cazotte with „Solitaire“ |
The first actual ties appeared in the 17th century and were spread all over the world by the Croats. These ties were made from fine muslin or a batiste ribbon quite often decorated with lace at the end. At the court of Louis XV the "Solitaire" was worn, a complicated knotted tie, which was knotted by "Cravatiers", who were specifically employed at the court for that purpose.
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Maison du Phénix, 1863 |
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Numerous tie knots were created in the first half of the 19th century, resulting in the publication of various books about ties - it became increasingly obligatory to wear a tie.
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Lavallière, around 1900 |
The emergence of the long tie in the Sixties of the 19th century marked a revolution in the tie's history - gradually it replaced the cross form of tie. The coloured tie only caught on at the end of the 20th century.
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Today's 3-part structure of the tie is the invention of the New York tie manufacturer Jesse Langsdorf, who simultaneously had the idea to cut it diagonally against the thread to achieve greater elasticity.
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From then up to now the structure of the tie has remained very much the same. Of course, the tie is worn sometimes with narrower sometimes with cut off ends, as in the Fifties or broader as in the Sixties. Today, a multitude of different materials and designs dominate the market - several treatment variations give the tie its special charm. |
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